Boston Globe
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First and Foremost
Town has beauty, brains, and a lot of historic relevance
August 20, 2008LITCHFIELD, CONN.
DISTANCE FROM BOSTON: 135 miles
POPULATION: 8,300
WEBSITES: www.townoflitchfield.org, www.litchfieldhills.com
ODD FACT: In 1776 the Sons of Liberty pulled down the statue of
King George III on Bowling Green in New York and shipped the pieces to
Litchfield, where women and children melted them into 42,000 bullets in
the orchard behind Oliver Wolcott's home on South Street.
Litchfield is one of Connecticut's most picturesque, historic, and
conservation-conscious communities. Located in the rolling Northwest
Hills, it is home to some of the most spectacular public land in New
England, including the White Memorial Conservation Center, a whopping
4,000 acres in a town of 56 square miles. Historic Litchfield Common is
where you'll find one of the state's most photographed houses of
worship, the First Congregational Church. Besides having been a "safe
town" for the Continental Army during the Revolution, Litchfield is home
to several notable educational and agrarian firsts, including the
country's first law school, Tapping Reeve House and Law School, whose
first student was Aaron Burr; Sarah Pierce's Litchfield Female Academy
(1792-1833), one of the first important schools for women in the nation;
and Echo Farm, the first dairy to commercially bottle milk.
Do
A walking tour of historic Litchfield would keep a buff quite busy
with nearly 50 historic buildings and other points of interest in one
area, including Tapping Reeve (82 South St., 860-567-4501,
litchfieldhistoricalsociety.org), which besides Burr schooled the likes
of John C. Calhoun and Horace Mann. Stop by the information booth on
Litchfield Common for a brochure. Also check out the Litchfield History
Museum (corner of Routes 118, 202, and 63, 860-567-4501,
www.litchfieldhistoricalsociety.org), where now through Nov. 26 is an
astounding exhibit of locally made antique furniture. White Memorial
Foundation (80 Whitehall Road, 860-567-0857, www.whitememorialcc.org) is
a 4,000-acre conservation area with an abundance of places to camp,
boat, picnic, watch birds, or hike nature trails. Its natural history
museum is quite popular, and coming Sept. 27 is the 27th annual Family
Nature Day. While in the area, don't forget Topsmead State Forest (Buell
Road, 860-567-5694, the former summer estate of Edith Morton Chase and
home to a gorgeous English Tudor cottage built for her. Flower lovers
will go wild over White Flower Farm (Route 63, 860-567-8789,
www.whiteflowerfarm.com), a nursery renowned for its massive catalog and
impressive fields, hothouses, and displays of perennials, shrubs, bulbs,
and specimen plants.
Play
If you like playing in the great outdoors, the place to go is
Connecticut Outdoors (20 Main St., Oakville, Conn., 860-274-6213,
www.4ctoutdoors.com). It's a few miles up the road from Litchfield, but
it rents and delivers gear from kayaks to snowshoes through places like
White Memorial and the Litchfield Inn. Take in the sights on two
wheels with a rental from the nearby Bicycle Tour Co. (9 Bridge St.,
Kent, 860-927-1742, www.BicycleTourCompany.com), the region's premier cycling
and touring center which delivers rentals to Litchfield. Or you
could try seeing the countryside on four feet, starting at Lee's Riding
Stable (57 East Litchfield Road, 860-567-0785), with riding through open
and wooded trails. The biggest theatrical venue in the county is on the
Litchfield/Torrington line: Warner Theatre (68 Main St., Torrington,
860-489-7180, www.warnertheatre.org), a Warner Brothers movie house
built in 1931 that was restored to its original gilded splendor in 2002.
The 1,772-seat theater hosts some 180 shows a year, including "Magic
Tree House: The Musical" in September and the seasonal favorite "The
Nutcracker" in December.
Stay
A popular place to call it a night is the Litchfield Inn (432 Bantam
Road, 860-567-4503, www.litchfieldinnct.com), a classic Colonial inn
with 32 guest rooms and gigantic 9-foot chandelier in the well of its
main staircase. The Tollgate Hill Inn & Restaurant (571 Torrington Road,
860-567-1233, www.tollgatehill.com) started serving guests in 1745 as
the Captain William Bull Tavern, and is listed on the National Register
of Historic Places. Tiny and quaint best describe the two-bedroom Abel
Darling B&B (102 West St., 860-567-0384, www.abeldarling.com), built in
1782. Its owner, Colleen Murphy, roiled the historical commission in
1998 when she put up window boxes that incurred the commission's
aesthetic wrath, a story that made The New York Times. She and the
window boxes are still there.
Fuel
Fine dining abounds in Litchfield, such as at West Street Grill (43 West
St., 860-567-3885, www.weststreetgrill.com, entrees $22-$37), featured
in local and national publications and on television, serving food in
booths, banquettes, and on the sidewalk to locals and the occasional New
York glitterati and literati. Terrific pub fare is found at the Village
Restaurant (25 West St., 860-567-8307, entrees $18-$28), facing
Litchfield Common, including great burgers, salads, and seafood. Looking
for a down-home breakfast? Try Pattie's (495 Bantam Road, 860-567-3335),
particularly the cheddar, salsa, and scallion omelet, a tangy way to
start the day. Very low key and funky best describes Bohemian Pizza (342
Bantam Road, 860-567-3980, pizza $13-$22, entrees $12-$20), which caters
to the younger set and serves not just pizza, but bar fare like jalapeņo
poppers, chicken wings, and pulled pork.
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